Standing 230 metres above sea level, Palmela castle is the region’s highest viewpoint, offering a splendid 360-degree vista. That said, in the past, pretty landscapes were less important than seeing potential threats, which is why the castle was constructed here between the 10th and 12th centuries, with the added advantage of being able to see both the river Sado and river Tagus.
In the 15th century, the castle was home to the old Santiago convent, until all the religious orders in Portugal were dissolved in 1834. Over 150 years later, the convent was converted into a historic pousada in 1979. Unsurprisingly, the view remains as stunning as it was a thousand years ago, whichever way you look. On one side, Setúbal, Arrábida and Troia, on the other, Lisbon, Cascais and even the Sintra mountains.
The Castelo Palmela Pousada is organised around the Pátio das Laranjeiras courtyard, which is the epicentre of the small hotel, where the galleries of the old convent cloister house the restaurant, bar and reading nooks.
The 28 rooms on the upper floors are spacious, some with a seating area. The decor changes from room to room, but other aspects, such as the antique furniture in dark wood, the curtains and pale headboards are standard. Other interesting details include hand-painted tiles in the bathrooms.
The pousada’s common areas are tranquillity incarnate. “Most of our guests come in search of peace and quiet,” says Alexandra Rodrigues Brás, assistant manager. Saying that, surprises are never in short supply. Within the walls of Palmela castle, which was classified as a national monument in 1910, attractions include the keep, the ruins of the Santa Maria do Castelo church (12th century and probably founded by King Afonso Henriques) and the Santiago church (15th century), not to mention the pousada itself. Other places worth seeing are the House of Military Transmissions, a small museum housed in the former House of Wireless Operators, where visitors can discover what methods the castle used to send messages over the years: from whelks and carrier pigeons to heliographs and rockets.
Below the castle is the picturesque town of Palmela, which is best explored on foot. Further away, but not too far, are the Louro and Arrábida mountains, the Costa Azul beaches and various wine estates that provide tours. After visiting such attractions, the highlight of the day might just be returning to the pousada, where the only sound in the late afternoon is that of the birds.
Essentials
