We focus on the month when Portugal’s two largest cities fill with colour, music and tradition. São João (Saint John) in Porto and Santo António (Saint Anthony) in Lisbon offer a mix of local culture and street entertainment. Each to their own, so they say.
Busy streets, simple and tasty food, popular music and a collective energy difficult to replicate any other time of the year – these are the requirements to celebrate the Popular Saints’ Festivals, from Lisbon to Porto. Visiting Portugal in June is like stepping into a constant celebration, where each corner might hide a new arraial.
Lisbon: neighbourhoods, sardines and marches
In the country’s capital, the festivities take place during several weeks, including the whole month of June, with celebrations peaking on the night of Santo António, from the 12th to 13th June, when things really get off the ground. The Festas dos Santos Populares are one of the most authentic expressions of the city that brings people into the street in a democratic and lively way.
Alfama, Graça, Bica and Madragoa are just some of the neighbourhoods that stage the arraiais, providing live music, outdoor grills and long tables where people eat, drink and dance, until late. The marchas populares, which parade up and down Avenida da Liberdade, are another highlight, with different neighbourhoods competing with choreography and costumes prepared for many months beforehand.
To experience these festivities in Lisbon, it’s a good idea to wear comfortable footwear and have cash in your pocket, as the makeshift stalls don’t always accept cards. Throughout the month, why not explore the several arraiais without a fixed itinerary and flit from one to another. On the twelfth, only choose one spot because getting around is quite difficult and best done only on foot, as most of the action is in the historic zone. Staying in a historic hotel in Alfama puts you at the centre of things, offering easy access to the most traditional neighbourhoods and a genuine experience of June nights in Lisbon.
Porto: the longest night of the year
In Porto, the night of São João (23rd to 24th June), is an intense experience. The city comes alive in the late afternoon and doesn’t slow down until sunrise. Plastic hammers, wild leeks, grilled sardines and ‘popular’ music are all part of a celebration that mixes locals and visitors. From rua das Galerias de Paris to the city’s river area, the party spreads throughout the city and the ambiance is catchy.
One of the most awaited events of the evening is the fireworks over the Douro, which take place at midnight and is visible from various spots in the “Undefeated” city. To find the best location, best dine early and near the centre. Stay at a hotel in Ribeira Square, Porto, which means you can do everything on foot – from the joy on the streets to the fire show over the river – and easily return to the hotel at any time during the evening.
