Between the magnificence of Serra da Estrela and the historical charm of Viseu, there’s a route that combines nature, culture and well-being. Three days are sufficient for those who wish to get away from the humdrum and rediscover the pleasure of slow travel.
Day 1: The heights of Serra da Estrela
The journey begins uphill, heading towards the heart of the Serra da Estrela Nature Park. Bend after bend, the road winds its way through the pine forests, streams and villages, where time passes slowly. As we get closer to the peak, the air gets fresher, the temperature drops and the horizon widens to present a breathtaking scenario.
Climb to Torre (the highest point of mainland Portugal), explore the glacial lagoons and take the trails that lead to small schist villages, some long-since abandoned. In the winter, the landscape awakens, painted white with snow and ideal for skiing and frolicking with the family. In the summer, the mountain reveals a different feel, with trails and streams perfect for walking and swimming.
At the end of the day, the Pousada Serra da Estrela hosts the travellers in the best way possible. The hotel in Serra da Estrela Natural Park combines the authenticity of the place’s origins with modern-day comfort: cosy interiors, large windows with views over the valleys and other spots that are perfect after a day of discovery.
The whole family is welcome. Inside, there’s a games room popular with the youngsters, while, outside, bikes allow guests to become more familiar with the mountainside and its secrets. Four-legged friends (dogs) are also welcome. Take advantage of the spa with a sauna and Turkish bath, take a dip in the indoor pool or simply enjoy the sunset by the fireside, in an atmosphere that seems to be of a bygone era. At night, the restaurant serves regional dishes, such as pork shank with coriander sauce, bean stew with local sausages, mountain goat and Urze rice, picked in Serra da Estrela, at an altitude of over 1600 metres. The wine list is an ode to the Beira Interior winegrowing area, which is worth perusing.
Day 2: from the mountain to the city of Viriato
After breakfast – which includes panoramic views, as well as delicious crispy bread and mountain honey –, it’s time to head down towards Viseu. The trip takes around an hour and is a discovery in itself: picturesque villages, deep valleys and vineyards mean we’ve arrived in the Dão region.
In Viseu, the city’s elegance combines with its long history. In the centre of the town is the Pousada Viseu, which is housed in the old São Teotónio Hospital, a carefully restored 19th-century building. The historic hotel in Viseu is impressive for its neo-classical architecture, high ceilings, as well as its spacious and bright corridors.
After the trip, the indoor pool and spa are the perfect way to relax, with massages, jacuzzi and an atmosphere that helps you take things slowly. Come dinner time, try the Viriato, an elegant restaurant that serves the finest regional fare with a contemporary twist. Top meat dishes include roasted Beira goat and Lafões veal, while recommended fish options are cod and octopus, both specialities of the house. Don’t forget to leave room for dessert, like the pastel de Vouzela and the baked cheesecake, with Serra da Estrela cheese, toasted pine nut and grape ice-cream.
Day 3: Viseu: art, tradition and a final toast
The last day is dedicated to seeing Viseu at your leisure. The city is a veritable outdoor museum, with verdant parks and ancient trees, set among a wealth of historical and architectural heritage, including the Pousada Viseu itself. Start by walking from here to the Sé (cathedral), one of the most impressive landmarks of the historic centre. Continue until you reach the Grão Vasco museum, which houses masterpieces of the Portuguese Renaissance.
Stroll through the main square Rossio, explore the walls and discover the various handicraft shops and traditional cafes. If there’s time, walk to the Fontelo park, one of the loveliest gardens in the region, which boasts trails between the trees.
Back to the Pousada, enjoy one final coffee, surrounded by nature, or have a quick swim before leaving – it would be the best way to end the perfect break.
