It all began in the early 1950s, with the construction of the Caniçada dam and the problem of finding accommodation for the many engineers involved in the project. That was the first phase of the Caniçada-Gerês Pousada. Further down the line, with changes to the Cávado river basin, the place became a leisure area, with engineers replaced by tourists. Initially meant to remain a restaurant, the building became a pousada in 1968 – inaugurated by the then President of Portugal Américo Tomás – and has been expanding ever since. In 1990, it reopened with 29 rooms, adding another seven in 2008, giving a good indication of how popular Caniçada-Gerês and its unique location have become.
Although the pousada is only 500 metres above sea level, it feels more like 1,500, given the stunning views of the mountains and river, and the steep slope down to the river Cávado. At night, village lights twinkle in the distance, making the hotel seem a little like a Swiss chalet on the slopes of Gerês: the low ceilings (except for the beautiful lounge), dark woods, beams, warm colours, countless nooks and crannies, crackling fireplaces to cheer cold days. An environment with few luxuries but a welcome like few others.
Much of the credit for this special atmosphere is down to the first people who managed the place, during the Estado Novo period. It was a French couple called the Balliers who had the concession until 1974, the year of Portugal’s Carnation Revolution (known in Portugal as 25 de Abril). They styled it like an Alpine house, with colours and lighting to match, which has remained unchanged, despite various expansions. For more daring souls, there’s a swimming pool with spring water – which takes longer to heat up than a swimming pool in Albufeira – and large families can book connecting rooms.
After 70 years in a region as lush as Gerês, nature has taken hold of the pousada and made it its very own. The Chinese wisteria on the courtyard wall, outside the main building, is the perfect background for that photo you’ll want to show friends and family, while the surrounding gardens almost blend into the mountains. It’s the spirit of mountain at its finest. You can hear water running, while the chapel bell rings and the birds sing. It’s like being in an episode of Heidi.
essentials
Caniçada-Gerês Pousada
The Pousada, almost in the clouds, with the best view over Gerês.